Curb your design enthusiasm

Communal dining in style at 3 Square

By Julianne Gorman, Special to Metromix

June 29, 2007

(Photo Credit: Kenesha Sneed)




3 Square exudes design-geek curb appeal. The front of the restaurant is floor-to-ceiling glass with wood tables that slide through the panes, increasing or decreasing seating capacity on either side. (Wood-working hobbyist, owner Hans Rockenwagner actually built the tables himself.) But if the face of the restaurant is all style and austerity, the inside is the opposite: warm and bustling and nothing if not communal.

When we visited, 6 p.m. on a Saturday, the place was packed -- and there was a rollicking group at the communal table by the kitchen. Anonymity immediately went out the door as my date and I contorted to shoot photos from 6 different angles. Our neighboring diners inquired, so we revealed our underlying purpose. Then they surprised us with a counter-reveal: the blond gentleman to my right was actually the restaurant's chef, Wolfgang Gussmack. Yikes. Pressure. We chortled; small-talked; then—poker faces firmly intact—we tasted.

The salty, gooey corn crepes stuffed with black forest ham, fontina and roasted bell peppers, were a favorite. But the avocado fries were something of a let-down. Gussmack’s wife divulged that a marriage proposal would be forthcoming at the far end of the long, family-style table. Much like the showroom at Design Within Reach, the room's vibe isn't exactly romantic—but the familial energy warms it up. We tacitly agreed to photograph the unfolding romantic subterfuge.

Then: More food. Mercilessly, I pit burger vs. burger in the mini burger trio. Hands down winner was the beef burger on a pretzel roll. It was cheesy and salty, with a firm skinned roll complimenting the tender, perfectly done patty. "Get the Mac N' Cheese Souffle," a knowing chorus chimed. Dusted with those ubiquitous breadcrumbs, the puffy dome emitted a satisfying curl of steam when pierced with a spoon.

Meanwhile, rumors indicated that future groom will wait for a more private setting. Ahhh, well. Our dessert, a trio of contemporary Bavarian delights, quelled any disappointment at missing the 2-carat presentation. And the promise of love lingered in the air, regardless.


Food: A succinct collection of Austrian comfort foods and a smattering of Americanized options. Veggie options few and far between.

Scene: Warm, bustling and communal—with style.

Insider Tip: The wine list is small, but very carefully selected; ask chef Gussmack for a recommendation—he's more than happy to kick in suggestions.